Pre-Owned Balenciaga: A Guide to the City, Hourglass & Sneakers
By The Old Fashioned Club team
City, Hourglass, Triple S: from the couture of Cristóbal Balenciaga to the Demna era, icons, authentication and resale value second-hand. The OFC guide.
Balenciaga is two houses in one: the couture legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga, "the couturier of couturiers", and the street-luxe house reinvented by Demna from 2015. Buying second-hand gives access to both worlds — the legendary 2000s City bag as well as the Hourglass or the contemporary sneakers — at a fair price. Here is our guide: icons, materials, authentication and resale value.
From Cristóbal Balenciaga to Demna
Cristóbal Balenciaga founded his house in Spain before establishing it in Paris in 1937. A master of cut and volume, he was nicknamed by his peers "the couturier of couturiers"; Dior himself saw him as the greatest. After a quieter period, the house was reborn at the turn of the 2000s under Nicolas Ghesquière, who created the City bag in 2001 (also known as the Lariat or Motorcycle), the ultimate it-bag of the decade. From 2015, Demna imposed a radical street-luxe aesthetic — oversized silhouettes, chunky sneakers, subversions — that redefined desire around the house.
The icons: City, Hourglass, sneakers
The Balenciaga catalogue sought-after second-hand is built around a few key pieces:
| Piece | Era | Signature |
|---|---|---|
| City / Motorcycle | Ghesquière, 2001 | Crinkled goatskin, studs, mirror, tassels and padlock |
| Hourglass | Demna, 2019 | Curved "hourglass" base, B logo hardware |
| Triple S | Demna, 2017 | Chunky multi-sole sneaker, a pioneer of the genre |
| Speed Trainer | Demna | Stretch sock sneaker, slim sole |
The City remains the collector's object par excellence: its naturally crinkled goatskin, its aged hardware and its little mirror have become cult. The earliest years of production are the most sought-after.
Materials and finishing
On the Ghesquière-era bags, the dominant material is crinkled goatskin, supple and ribbed, sometimes replaced by smoother lambskin depending on the season. The hardware is deliberately aged (an "antique brass" effect). On the Hourglass and Demna leather goods, you find very structured smooth or grained leathers and crisp hardware bearing the B logo. On the sneakers side, the assembly of the soles, the quality of the mixed materials (mesh, leather, rubber) and the evenness of the stitching are decisive.
How to authenticate a Balenciaga
Balenciaga is massively counterfeited, the sneakers first and foremost. Checkpoints: on the City, the engraved metal plate inside, the serial number and season letter on the leather tab behind the tab, the genuinely crinkled look of the goatskin, the weight of the hardware and the original mirror. On the sneakers, examine the interior labels, the typography of the markings, the quality of the sole assembly and the consistency of the stitching. Labels and markings should always be crisp and consistent with the model's year.
No single criterion is enough. Every piece sold at Old Fashioned Club is authenticated by our experts and accompanied by a certificate of authenticity. Entrupy authentication (AI + microscopy) is used on many items and available on request.
Resale value and price ranges
As a guide, on the pre-owned market:
| Piece | Indicative pre-owned range |
|---|---|
| City / Motorcycle | €500 – €1,200 |
| Hourglass (small) | €900 – €1,700 |
| Triple S | €300 – €650 |
| Speed Trainer | €200 – €500 |
These benchmarks depend on condition, leather, year and the rarity of the colourway. Early-year Cities in pristine condition and limited Demna editions can far exceed these ranges.
Shop the look
Discover our pre-owned Balenciaga selection — City bags, Hourglass and sneakers — along with the entire Balenciaga universe. To widen your search, explore our pre-owned luxury bags at Old Fashioned Club.
Frequently asked questions
- What is the most iconic Balenciaga bag?
- The City (also known as the Motorcycle or Lariat), created by Nicolas Ghesquière in 2001, is the house's emblematic it-bag. Recognisable by its crinkled goatskin, aged hardware, tassels, padlock and little mirror, it remains the Balenciaga collector's object par excellence second-hand.
- What is the Hourglass bag?
- The Hourglass is the signature bag of the Demna era, launched in 2019. Its name comes from its curved, hourglass-shaped base, topped with large "B" hardware. Available in several sizes and leathers, it has become one of the most sought-after Balenciaga leather goods.
- How do you authenticate a Balenciaga City bag?
- Check the engraved metal plate inside, the serial number and season letter on the leather tab behind the tab, the genuinely crinkled look of the goatskin, the weight of the hardware and the original mirror. Authentication is multi-criteria and should be entrusted to experts.
- Are pre-owned Balenciaga sneakers reliable?
- Yes, provided you buy them authenticated: the Triple S and Speed Trainer are among the most counterfeited sneakers in the world. Check the interior labels, the typography of the markings, the sole assembly and the evenness of the stitching. At Old Fashioned Club, every pair is authenticated and sold with a certificate.
- Who was Cristóbal Balenciaga?
- Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895-1972) is the Spanish couturier who founded the house, settling in Paris in 1937. A master of cut and volume, nicknamed "the couturier of couturiers", he left his mark on fashion history. The house was later reinvented by Nicolas Ghesquière and then by Demna.
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